I was beginning to doubt we would ever get around to posting the last couple entries to our New Zealand excursion. But here we go... yes, sorry for the excessively long delay. we got to hawaii and it was go, go, go right away. we have settled into a bit more of a routine here now, so we have time to get you all up to date...
While we were in Fiordland National Park (on the southwest end of the south island), Rachel and I decided to splurge and go for a two day kayaking adventure in "Doubtful Sound," which is one of the more remote fiords in the park (a fiord is a glacial valley extending in from the ocean). Fiordland is charactaristically cloudy and rainy, and when we crossed over the pass and first set eyes on Doubtful Sound, it appeared just so. there are several "sounds" in fiordland, but they were mistakenly named by the first white explorers. a sound is a large inlet of the sea, often carved by the sea itself. a fiord is a long narrow inlet created by glacial activity. it is amazing to think of this amazing landscape being formed simply by the movement of ice.

Here we go, dressed like ducks, into the wilderness...
rubber ducky, you're the one. you make kayaking lots of fun...
The clouds soon blew away, leaving us with a day and a half of blue skies and smooth sailing.
it rains in fiordland almost every day of the year, so we were extremely lucky to get so much sun and blue sky. our guide said he had never had a trip with such nice weather. i have done a little bit of kayaking, but never done this sail thing. it was really neat. we "rafted up," then the back people tied the sail to their paddles and raised them in the air while the front people held the rope a little lower, and away we went!

The walls of the fiord are very steep, and the forest grows on a very thin layer of topsoil. Landslides are quite common. We came upon this one, which appeared only hours old. I could smell the fresh earth still lingering in the air. Note the kayak in the foreground to give it some scale.
all along the way, there were signs of landslides. once you knew what to look for, you could tell the various stages of development of the slopes. this is a common cycle--landslide, lichen growth on the rock, small plants form in the shallow pockets of leftover soil, trees grow, a whole forest develops, the forest gets too heavy and slides into the ocean. rinse, repeat. this one was the freshest we saw, for sure. it is near where we stopped for lunch, and some of the group heard some muffled noises that sounded like trees falling down. i didn't hear it, but luke did. anyway, we came upon this, the smell of soil still in the air, and wonder...
this is as we docked for the evening. the whole group decided to take a dip once camp was set up. the water was freezing! maybe even literally! but boy, a dip in that icy water sure was refreshing. 
We made camp that evening and watched the shadows move across the valley as the sun set.
The next morning, we were up at dawn to get a full day's paddle in before heading back to town. It was another unusually sunny day, and absolutely stunning. And not another human for miles. According to our guide, we experienced a Fiordland that few people had.

We met some really cool people, learned a lot of interesting stuff, and had a great time. I don't know about Rachel, but it was the highlight of my time in New Zealand.
mine too, for sure. our guide was really a great guy, very knowledgeable and a good storyteller. the other folks on our trip--two aussies brothers and a german woman--were lovely and we ended up meeting for dinner that evening (at a delicious restaurant that was apparently a favorite of the "lord of the rings" cast). all in all, it was an amazing trip that i won't soon forget.
As we left Te Anau the next morning, the moon and the mountains bid us farewell...
it was a fitting end to a magical four days in fiordland. i hope we are able to get back there someday.